The morning in Baddeck, an afternoon in Sydney

After breakfast at the nearby Tim Horton's, our first task of the morning Baddeck was finding the local laundromat. We packed for eight days, or at least I did, but D and Eli tend to change more frequently, so we had a couple of loads of laundry to complete. While the clothes were in the washing machine, we did a walk up and back the main street. It was early, around 8 a.m. so there wasn't a whole lot open as yet. 

We originally thought this building was a church, but I have learned it is actually the Gilbert H. Grosvenor Hall, built in 1887. It has gone through various iterations, including customs house and post office, library, and now houses the Bras D'Or Lakes and Watershed Interpretive Centre. I wish I'd discovered before we left Baddeck!

D took this photo of the hotel that my friends stayed at, back in 2015. It's a lovely old building, but with no pool, I didn't think it would suit our purposes on this trip. In the end, we didn't use the outdoor pool at the Cabot Trail Motel, as it was a little cool in the afternoon.

Eli had his I-Pad, D and I our phones, so kept ourselves amused while waiting for the clothes to dry. We headed back to the motel to drop off the clean laundry, and before we left, D and Eli went down to the lake.

Then it was time for the main attraction of the day, the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. A short drive from the downtown area of Baddeck, it is an very interesting museum. While Bell is known to be the inventor of the telephone, he had a hand in many other inventions, including hydrofoils, kites, aeroplanes and x-rays. I remember being fascinated on my last trip there, and this time was no different.

A wall of telephones from through the years. I can only guess what Alexander Graham Bell would think of our current cell phones!

The plane above, is a replica of the Silver Dart. The Silver Dart had it's initial flight in Canada on the ice of Bras D'or Lake on February 23, 1909. The pilot who flew the aircraft that day was J.A.D. McCurdy. It was a short flight, but the plane lifted to an elevation of 20-30 feet. A few days later, McCurdy flew again, this time at an elevation of 50-60 feet for a distance of four and one half miles. Sadly, on August 2, 1909, the Silver Dart was crashed Petawawa, Ontario, during its demonstration flights in front of Canadian military officers. The plane was demolished and McCurdy suffered a broken nose.

Eli was fascinated by the telephone switchboard, and spent some time connecting and disconnecting the lines.

This is portion of the replica of Mr. Bell's study. 

I should mention that the Bell's spent thirty years between their homes in Washington, DC and Baddeck. Their home near Baddeck is not open to visitors, though we did take a drive to see if we could find a viewpoint. After finding a sign that advised there is none, we turned around and headed back to the motel.

After packing up and loading the car, we headed off to Sydney. Here are a couple of the photos of our drive.

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A view of the Seal Island Bridge, or alternatively the Great Bras D'or Crossing. 

I don't recall exactly when we arrived in Sydney, but we were early enough in the day to make our way to Fortress Louisbourg. The site is a partial reconstruction of the fortress built by France, beginning in 1719 and completed on the eve of the siege in 1745, following a declaration of war between Britain and France. The British took the fort, but their occupancy was short-lived when three years later it was returned to the French via a treaty. In 1758, another siege occurred, the British prevailed and demolished to fortress walls.

The reconstruction was completed in the 1960's through the 1980's, many of the buildings on the site of original foundations. Most interesting is the reconstruction encompasses only one quarter of the original town and fortifications.

We started our adventure at the Visitor' Center where our admission gave us a ticket to ride a shuttle bus to an area outside the fortress. It's a little bit of a hike from the bus stop to the main gates, and the area within the gates has a lot to see!

This building was sectioned off, with officers in one area and regular soldiers in another. There were young men in period costumes who explained the history as if it were today.

There is a lovely chapel inside the building. 

I don't imagine the pews were very comfortable.

I believe this was the bed of the commander of the Fortress. Much more comfortable looking than the beds in the jail house below.

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In addition to a garden area, there were animals to be visited too - these were Eli's favorite things in the Fortress.

Turkeys, ducks, and chickens were on display, and totally disinterested in the people eyeing them through the fence.

We walked to the bus stop, waited just a few minutes and returned to the Visitor's Center.

Both inside the park gates and just outside was evidence of Hurricane Fiona, which came ashore as a post-tropical storm in September, 2022. 

Back in Sydney we went to our hotel where D and Eli headed for the pool, and I relaxed for a bit. I recall where we picked up our dinner that night, a concession stand at a Open Hearth Park. The fellow was just about to close down when we arrived as it was cool and a bit windy. But he gladly prepped our burgers and fries, while we waited in our car. While waiting we noticed the playground and decided it would be a good place to visit the next day.

More on that in the next post!

Off to Baddeck, via New Glasgow, Arisaig, and Antigonish.

The next few days involved more driving. After four nights we checked out of the hotel in Bedford, saying see you later, with the Cabot Trail Motel in Baddeck our planned destination for the night.

We had lots of time, as our driving time would have been around 4 hours, and we weren't scheduled to check in until 3 p.m. Though the Pomquet Beach outside Antigonish was on the spreadsheet, it was a cool, cloudy day with rain in the forecast, so we decided to forgo the beach day and find other spots to visit along the way.

But first of all, here are a few photos of the scenery along the highway. I can't tell you exactly where we were, but do know the photos were taken before we reached New Glasgow.

D did some research on the "Google machine" and came up with a historical house in New Glasgow, the Carmichael-Stewart House Museum. Built in 1880, the house was a wedding gift to James Matheson Carmichael and his bride, Christian Matheson from his parents. His eldest daughter, Maria Carmichael inherited the property. She married Robert Bruce Stewart. The couple had no children and on their passing, the house was bequeathed to the Town of New Glasgow. Maria passed away in 1959, Robert in 1962.

We happened to arrive on the day the museum officially opened for the 2025 season. The staff were busy setting up for the event which included the renaming of the property as the Pictou County History Museum.

We were welcomed in, admission was by donation. One of the staff shared some information with us about the history, and provided a quick tour of the main floor. In addition, she told us they were having a scavenger hunt, and we happily agreed to take part. We were provided a sheet of paper with clues as to where to find the rocks that had pictures attached and off we went to explore. 

The museum holds artifacts including household furniture, glassware, tools, toys, tools, and guns. Eli found a pair of wooden swords in the children's bedroom and was told to go ahead and play with them. (That surprised me). We found most of the rocks inside the house, and then headed outdoors to the garden and yard to find even more of them. When we returned indoors, the staff member was kind enough to point us in the direction of the last one or two we were missing. Eli was presented with a prize for being the first to complete the scavenger hunt. It was a fun stop and I think we all enjoyed it.

Leaving New Glasgow we started on our way to Antigonish. Again D did a little research and found a unique option, the Arisaig Lobster Interpretive Marine Life Centre. The centre offers touch tanks, a scaled down lobster fishing boat, and lots of information about the lobster fishing industry. There were two young men working the day we arrived. One, was the grandson of a man who built many of the boats that were used in the area for lobster fishing. His father recently sold his fishing license as this young man plans to go to university to become an engineer. The second young man had just graduated two days prior from highschool and was planning to go to university in the fall as well. 

The biggest draw was the lobsters in the touch tank. They were various colours, blue, green, and brown. (I didn't think to ask why. Their claws were banded shut, but the critters were still aggressive towards one another. Sadly, neither D nor I got a decent photo of the tank. The best I can offer is the mounted lobster. According to the note, it weighed about 20 pounds, and was thought to be about 40 years old.

Nearby was the Arisaig replica lighthouse. The original burned down in 1939, but was rebuilt by local volunteers in 2007. It contains an ice cream shop on the lower level. Had it been a warmer day, we might have enjoyed a cone. We did, however, enjoy the views from the shoreline.

Leaving Arisaig, we continued on to Antigonish where we stopped at the Peace by Chocolate store. Originally from Syria, the Hadhad family lost their chocolate factory in Damascus in a bombing in 2012. They originally fled to Lebanon, later found their way to Canada, where they built their business in Antigonish, Nova Scotia. If you ever have the opportunity to taste their chocolate, I can assure you it is delicious. We bought a couple of bars to bring home with us, and each picked out a single chocolate to enjoy in the car as a treat.

Since we were planning to stay one night in Antigonish a couple of days later, we decided to wait to do more exploring then. We headed for the main highway, and I did an oopsie mistake, taking the wrong exit. We were off course for probably 15 minutes or so before our GPS maps gave us a reasonable option to return to the highway. (There were a couple of roads it suggested we turn on that looked a wee bit suspect to me).

We arrived at the motel mid-afternoon and were ready to get out of the car. Our room was up on the hill above the main office and restaurant. The view of Bras D'or Lake was lovely. The lake has a connection to the Atlantic Ocean, but also has fresh water inflows - we learned the water is called brackish. Before we left the following day, D and Eli crossed the highway to put their toes in the water.

The motel did have a restaurant on site, but we had passed by the Red Barn Gift shop and restaurant, a few minutes away. The meal was memorable, not only for the meal, but for D's interactions with several other guests. A couple came in shortly after we did, having ridden in on a motorcycle. They were from Quebec and spoke just a little English. D is functionally bilingual and was able to assist the couple and the waitress with their order. Later another group was trying to order dessert, and she assisted with that request as well. Back to our meal, would it surprise you if I said I ordered fish and chips? Both D and Eli had French fries a well, and we all agreed they were the best we'd had on the trip. After a brief stop in the gift shop, we headed back to the motel for a good night's sleep.

We had big plans for the next day!